Chiang Mai
The months in gold are when the weather, the crowds and the prices work out best.
Chiang Mai is worth visiting for its mix of mountain air and local food culture. Go between November and February to avoid the smoky burning season. Plan for at least five days to see the city and the surrounding hills.
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Five to seven days is enough for the city and a trip to the nearby mountains.
Most travelers arrive by a one hour flight from Bangkok or an overnight train.
Drivers of red songthaews often charge foreigners triple the local rate. Always ask the price before you sit down or negotiate firmly.
The right time to go
The cooler months from November through February are the only time the air quality is consistently good. You will avoid the intense heat of spring and the heavy rain of summer.
Plan your trip during these months to hike comfortably. If you visit in March or April, you may deal with haze from farmers burning crops in the surrounding fields.
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What it feels like to be there
Expect a slower pace than Bangkok. You spend your days walking through temple grounds or sitting in cafes. Much of the life happens in the lanes outside the old city walls.
Traffic is dense in the urban areas. Motorbikes rule the roads. If you are not comfortable driving a scooter, you will rely on shared red trucks called songthaews.
Common mistakes
Many people try to see every temple in the city during their first two days. You will burn out quickly. Pick two or three that interest you and spend more time at local markets instead.
Some visitors stay only inside the old square. You miss the best parts of the city by not exploring the neighborhoods just outside the walls, where the rent is cheaper and the food is better.
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Songthaew drivers charge much more to foreigners if you don't negotiate.
The daily figure is an estimate and does not include flights. The exchange rate is real, and it moves once a day, not by the second.
The background
Chiang Mai is the largest city in northern Thailand, the capital of Chiang Mai province and the second-largest city in Thailand by urban population. It is 700 km (435 mi) north of Bangkok in a mountainous region called the Thai highlands, and has a population of approximately 127,000 within the city municipality and an urban population of about 1.2 million as of 2023. The heart of the city is commonly defined by a square area about 1.6 km × 1.6 km. It is bordered by ancient red brick walls (now only remnants) and has a moat surrounding it. However, the greater urban area, including surrounding districts such as Hang Dong, San Sai, and Saraphi, forms a metropolitan region with an estimated population exceeding 1 million. At the provincial level, Chiang Mai had a projected population of 1.8 million in 2023, according to Thailand's National Statistical Office. Chiang Mai (meaning "new city" in Thai) was founded in 1296 as the new capital of Lan Na, succeeding the former capital, Chiang Rai. The city's location on the Ping River (a major tributary of the Chao Phraya River) and its proximity to major trading routes contributed to its historic importance. The city municipality of Chiang
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Questions people ask
How much money do I need per day?
A normal day costs about 2500 THB. This covers decent meals, coffee, and transport.
Is it safe to drink the tap water?
No, do not drink tap water in Chiang Mai. Stick to bottled or filtered water provided by your hotel.
Do I need to rent a scooter?
You do not need one to see the city center. Only rent a scooter if you are an experienced rider and have a valid motorcycle license.
What should I wear at temples?
Cover your shoulders and knees. Carry a light sarong in your bag to wrap around your waist when entering religious sites.
Is the city walkable?
The old city square is small enough to walk, but the sidewalks are often uneven or blocked by parked bikes. Be prepared to walk on the street at times.